UPDATED Day #2 - Today's testing & development session w/ the Haltech ecu. Options

[underpressure]

Standard conversion from Dyno Dynamics Shootout mode to DynoJet is ~12-13%.

USDM cars. Series II cars.
EDM and AUDM should be the same.
We are arranging testing to confirm.

These are all repeatable runs.
BP 93 fuel

Cobb and Haltech runs were at the approx the same boost level.
Cobb was a little bit higher actually.


Early July for a realistic release date.
Taking pre-orders now. 50% down.
There are no official pre-orders thru Haltech.
Pricing is $3199-

Would suggest running it with the Haltech dual channel wideband for closed loop.
*no external gauge, just feeds the Haltech*
$349-
Haltech Dual Channel Wideband






Played around a little bit w/ some race fuel:


This post has been edited by underpressure: Jun 11 2009, 04:56 PM

[tekknikal]

impressive, what modifications does the haltech car have in this case?

[underpressure]

impressive, what modifications does the haltech car have in this case?

This is my car.
K&N filters
MA-Motorsports full exhaust, turbo back wide open.

That's it.

This post has been edited by underpressure: Jun 10 2009, 03:33 PM

[Kickhard]

Whoa Nice gains there. Just to be clear what mods are on this car to produce the 527. Also what psi? Looks impressive

[tekknikal]

This is my car.
K&N filters
MA-Motorsports full exhaust, turbo back wide open.

That's it.

no actuators? impressive.

do all the stock lcd gauges remain functional? any other changes/compromises to car's factory features/drivability (besides the extra power)?
edit- and is the cobb reference s1 or s2?

[Chuck_H]

Impressive results!

[yano]

Standard conversion from Dyno Dynamics Shootout mode to DynoJet is ~12-13%.

USDM cars. Series II cars.
EDM and AUDM should be the same.
We are arranging testing to confirm.

These are all repeatable runs.
BP 93 fuel

Cobb and Haltech runs were at the approx the same boost level.
Cobb was a little bit higher actually.


Early July for a realistic release date.
Taking pre-orders now. 50% down.
There are no official pre-orders thru Haltech.
Pricing is $3199-

Would suggest running it with the Haltech dual channel wideband for closed loop.
*no external gauge, just feeds the Haltech*
$349-
Haltech Dual Channel Wideband






Played around a little bit w/ some race fuel:

so how does this make so much more HP?

fuel air timing ?

what else does it control?

do you have plans to run it on someones car with actuators, downpipe ypipe, FMIC turbos?

Im pretty blown away by the huge HP improvement

also, how hard or easy is it to tune?

should this still be left in the hands of expert tuners?

does each car have to have its own halltech or can i take my car to any tuner and he can download the maps?

will map sharing come with the price?

Im sure ill have more questions

i feel like that commercial from Nike

hey lebron
hey lebron
hey lebron
leBron

[tyndago]

That is a huge gain vs an Accessport. Seems interesting. Power is timing, and fuel. I imagine the Accessport controls and alters both those parameters. Boost is always the bigger thing for a turbo car, but you say its actually less.

A ton of timing down low will wake everything up a bit. So how close to the ragged edge is 527 hp ?

[Arsinek]

haltech is a complete standalone unit right? seems like this would be a guaranteed warranty void.

[STI2EVO2GTR]

Wow that is more than a huge differenece

[DragoGT-R]

haltech is a complete standalone unit right? seems like this would be a guaranteed warranty void.

One little thing and its void....

[MindlessOath]

Sweet. I remember asking cobb what they thought and they ignored the question. Now I see them reading the thread.

Great job haltech and will!

Can't wait to see upgraded actuators and turbo s etc

[nanokpsi]

Since the haltech is obviously a full custom tune, is the cobb unit the same? It certainly doesn't look like it. Is the haltech being used to control cam timing on these pulls?

[ShahulX]

haltech is a custom tune and the cobb is not?

[celsius]

good #'s Will!

guys, one of the benefits of the Haltech is that it's so much QUICKER to actually tune and you can make changes while the car is running (atleast on the E6K you could), but you need a laptop to plug into it. With the Cobb AP, you have to stop the car and reflash everytime. Also, the Haltech has the ability to control more parameters than the Cobb AP.

This post has been edited by celsius: Jun 10 2009, 11:12 PM

[Chinaski]

Being a standalone unit am I right to assume this doesn't suffer from the Boost Cut Limp Mode?

[gtr_jrg]

just wondering how this would work with turbo upgrades, and such?

[Kickhard]

To add to Celsius's comments

Guys just so you know this unit is for serious HP monsters but I am sure you could use it for a stock GTR also once its tuned. By stand alone ECU that means the stock ECU in the car is taken out and replaced with this ECU(haltech) or in some cases it is added inline with the ECU. I am sure Underpressure can elaborate on that. Can you say warranty buster?? If you have to ask how this will affect my warranty then you need to step away from the Haltech box. This is the most envasive of ECU tuning as it gives full control now to you or your tuner.

The big power improvement with this kind of unit usally comes from the tune in timing, boost, and fuel. I am sure you can tune each individual cell(rpm) for timing, fuel etc...... I bet with this ECU you probably get more power from less boost right Underpressure?

I imagine the car comes with a base tune to get you going but as with any standalone ECU it needs to be tuned specifically to your cars mods for safety and full use of the power. Once that is done its game over. Also it will be easier to add mods to. For instance with fuel injectors, once they are physically added to the car all you would have to do is click on the fuel options menu, click on fuel injectors, click on the size and type and the program should automatically add them to everything that messes with fuel. One cool thing is i probably scales the fuel map automatically for the new injector size.

Dont get me wrong though, the cobb AP for what it does at its price is a great deal and value for money but now with this Haltech its like going from going from a lit match to a bonfire.

My main question and I am sure others have hinted at this underpressure is that how much will dirvability be affected. Now I am talking about idle, stalling, idle with the A/C on, Idle when you come to a stop, does the MFD still work? These are the issues that will make or break just any tom and Joe installing this in their car, my experience in the past is this part of the tuning is either spot on , sucks, or is a work in progress that always needs adjusting. Nissan spent alot of time, research and money into this area for good reason .

Cant wait to see this on a car with more serious mods. The gains should be very good from new form of ECU tuning.

[R35_395]

To add to Celsius's comments

Guys just so you know this unit is for serious HP monsters but I am sure you could use it for a stock GTR also once its tuned. By stand alone ECU that means the stock ECU in the car is taken out and replaced with this ECU(haltech) or in some cases it is added inline with the ECU. I am sure Underpressure can elaborate on that. Can you say warranty buster?? If you have to ask how this will affect my warranty then you need to step away from the Haltech box. This is the most envasive of ECU tuning as it gives full control now to you or your tuner.

The big power improvement with this kind of unit usally comes from the tune in timing, boost, and fuel. I am sure you can tune each individual cell(rpm) for timing, fuel etc...... I bet with this ECU you probably get more power from less boost right Underpressure?

I imagine the car comes with a base tune to get you going but as with any standalone ECU it needs to be tuned specifically to your cars mods for safety and full use of the power. Once that is done its game over. Also it will be easier to add mods to. For instance with fuel injectors, once they are physically added to the car all you would have to do is click on the fuel options menu, click on fuel injectors, click on the size and type and the program should automatically add them to everything that messes with fuel. One cool thing is i probably scales the fuel map automatically for the new injector size.

Dont get me wrong though, the cobb AP for what it does at its price is a great deal and value for money but now with this Haltech its like going from going from a lit match to a bonfire.

My main question and I am sure others have hinted at this underpressure is that how much will dirvability be affected. Now I am talking about idle, stalling, idle with the A/C on, Idle when you come to a stop, does the MFD still work? These are the issues that will make or break just any tom and Joe installing this in their car, my experience in the past is this part of the tuning is either spot on , sucks, or is a work in progress that always needs adjusting. Nissan spent alot of time, research and money into this area for good reason .

Cant wait to see this on a car with more serious mods. The gains should be very good from new form of ECU tuning.

The original ecu is not taken out, it is plugged into the wiring harness.
You still need the oem ecu to control everything else, Haltech only controls the engine.

Mine is installed and tuned,no more V108b boost cuts and it's really nice in the midrange but now i am doing actuators,injectors, esprit intercooler and G-saurus suction kit.
Once it's done, i will dyno it this time.

[Kickhard]

The original ecu is not taken out, it is plugged into the wiring harness.
You still need the oem ecu to control everything else, Haltech only controls the engine.

Mine is installed and tuned,no more V108b boost cuts and it's really nice in the midrange but now i am doing actuators,injectors, esprit intercooler and G-saurus suction kit.
Once it's done, i will dyno it this time.

Cool then that answers why when asked about drivability how no one is complaining. It should be spot on since really then this is an item that kinda splices in or piggy backs. It is unlike the AEM ECU kits then that replaced the whole old ecu. Are you sure about this? Most standalone kits are that "standalone" They are not plugged into factory ECU and run together. You have any directions or something to prove this?

Underpressure is this true?

This post has been edited by Kickhard: Jun 11 2009, 05:38 AM