Lets says you just got an oil change and usually you wait 2 track weekend before a change but for some reason you feel the need to just add a different type or refresh part of the oil.

Its easy to get to the oil drain port but to get to the filter, it requires considerable amount of time, so for a quick 5 mins change, could I drain the oil fully or partially and top it off without changing the filter, given that I just changed the oil less than 7 days ago?

Just wondering

Yes.

Thanks, also is it simple to only drain partially? Or once you open the drain plug it needs to empty out? is there a technique I can use?

It depends on how messy you want to get. Otherwise you can use a pump and pull it from the top.

http://www.kk.org/cooltools/archives/001299.php

Acceptable, but there are problems with doing it this way frequently.

Shawn

I use this http://www.mityvac.com/pages/products_fee.asp#07400
In and out of track days.

Seeing that the filter will last longer than my frequent oil change.

Thanks, I can see why using the top side changer will not be advisable frequently but you can use it frequently enough as long as your regular oil changes are appropriately spaced?

Or could I drain all of the oil in a pan from the drain plug and use half of it and add half new, if thats what I wanted to do, just add some fresher or different oil?

Personally I would never, ever re-use 'old' oil, I don't care how few miles it has on it. Filter maybe, but oil is so damn cheap why not change 100% if you're going to the trouble of changing? (Caveat: the oil is cheap unless you're using liquid 'gold' AKA Willall 10W-60. Sorry Martin, couldn't resist!! lol).

Bish

The only reason I was saying was, if you dont have enough at hand and you are on the track and you feel you should change the oil partially because the temps seem to be too high. I can carry 6 quartz with me all the time, but just in case i didnt.

Also didnt few people reuse there trans oil after it was used a little while swapping out the oil pan?

LOL you can't even compare the two. They see two totally different environments. Engine oil is dealing with gas, water, carbon and dirt contaminants, higher temps in certain areas etc.

2nd what Bish says. Even at it's most expensive $7-$8 for a quart of Mobil 1, it's so cheap that there is no reason to ever reuse engine oil.

Is this your first car?

Cost is not the problem, I was asking if I am stuck with not all 6 quartz and had just changed the oil recently enough but want to do it again. Not like I am trying to use 3k used miles oil, I was asking for lets say 500 or so miles and want to refresh it a little since I saw really high engine oil temps at the track and do not happen to have all the 6 qts required.

Well its not my first car, but it surely is my first car that I am tracking this extensively and also first car where I am trying to do things on my own

Could you explain why you couldn't wait to obtain the missing quarts?



DIY is great, but if you don't understand the mechanics or principles behind what you are doing or how a car works at a basic level you could end up doing more harm than good. Going to the internet for help is great, but keep in mind it IS the internet!

Just being cautious I guess while at the track.



I would agree, but I am selectively taking advice from members who seem to have plenty of experience or are actual mechanics on the car. But I know what you mean. I am not trying to make this a practice but was asking as a safety net just in case I feel it might be better and I didnt say I want to reuse the oil, all I was asking was, if i could partially drain the oil and then top off.

If you're "sucking" several quarts out the dipstick, and replacing some to replace additives and/or thermal breakdown, this is one thing. However, draining some out into a pan (that's hopefully clean), and then returning to the crankcase is different.

I've seen it done. Ultimate Street Car Challenge, 2008.

I agree, I wouldn't do it. Too much chance for contamination by the pan, particulates, etc. If you could filter it, or even siphon it off the top with a pump that drained from the top down, in a pinch, okay, but not routinely.

I think I get what you're trying to do, but again, NickTO's and my recommendation of removing a couple of quarts with a MityVac or other and then replacing that removed oil with new is the way to go if that's the objective you're trying to reach.

Shawn

One scenario 'kind of' makes sense if I truly understand what you're saying: your oil temps go ballistic and you want to put fresh oil in, BUT you don't have the full amount necessary for a complete fill. In that scenario you could drain say 2/3rds of the oil out and then replace it with fresh oil to the full mark. In this way you would have cleaner and 'fresher' oil in the car to complete your weekend because you'll then have 1/3rd older oil and 2/3rds brand new oil in the car. So yes you could do this, but again it seems like a lot of work when simply draining all of the oil and fully replacing it with new oil is by far and away the best thing to do.

I could state that by using a very good quality, higher viscosity oil that you aren't held captive by 'treating the numbers' either, but that's a hornet's nest that's already been stirred up!! lol

Bish

I like the idea of vacuuming out the oil between regular, frequent filter changes. That Mityvac is on Ebay for $53.00. Gotta think of what your labor is worth to you. Not having to crawl under the car and get all dirty has gotta be worth something!

+1 I probably spent as much on laundry detergent each year from crawling under the car!

I still have to change the oil filter, but at least in between those change, I use the Mityvac. Also useful at the track where I use a 15w50 oil to track and use the local disposal tank so no mess!

After bottled water Even if you drink Perrier), the cheapest part of a track day would be some fresh Mobil 1 0W40. Just change out half without hanging the filter if you like, better than no change at all. All you need is 5 quarts at $6 a quart or $30 of oil every few track days. If you change the oil really often, you could probably change the filter every second oil change. That's what I do. I use both a Mytivac and a Fumoto valve with a modified undertray (4 extra holes to remove undertray under the engine quickly). But changing filter is a pain sometimes, so just oil is better than nothing, and so darn cheap, it is a no brainer for me. Have you ever added up all the cost of a track day in the GT-R ( track fees, gas to get there and back, gas on track, hotels, meals, brake pads, rotors, tires, tire mounting and balancing, etc, and figure out that the GT-R is a mighty expensive car to run on track) and compared it to the cost of 5 quarts of Mobil 1?

"hanging the filter"? Just kiding. (I know what you meant).

I've always been intimidated by Fumoto valves. Two concerns - #1 what if they leak? #2 does opening the valve remove as much volume/sediment as "popping the cork" so to say. Gazillions of people use them, so I guess #1 is just paranoia. #2 - probably doesn't matter, but I'm interested in what you have to say.

5 quarts Mobil 1 - $35.
Not having to be on your back between track sessions with blazing hot oil dripping on your hands in a dirty paddock under a car on jacks and jackstands not on pavement - friggin' priceless.

Shawn

As a quick note, if you are going to bother draining oil, then go the full amount and remove the contaminents in the oil, not just part of them. It might cost you time and effort now but will save you in the long run

"Just kiding" Gotta watch those spell-checkers more carefully!

I had the same worry about Fumoto valve, but after looking at it decided it is fine. And much less mess than the pan bolt.